We have long loved JAAN for its exquisite contemporary cuisine, jaw-dropping views and impeccable service.
Now, chef Kirk Westaway has upped the ante with a simply fabulous British-inspired menu, complete with an evocative all-Brit soundtrack playing in the background.
From the get-go, chef Westaway’s quartet of snacks set the tone for the rest of the meal. These include buckwheat pancake featuring Devon cheddar cheese, a melt-in-your-mouth beetroot meringue made with organic beetroot from Yorkshire, and a clever take on that quintessentially British classic, fish and chips. No chunky battered fish and greasy chips here. Instead, the last features a delicately crisp mini potato tartlet bearing cod brandade spiked with a splash of vinegar.
But as much as it is about ‘reinventing’ the classics, as the name of the menu may suggests, it is also about showcasing British produce, such as in the gently poached Irish oyster paired with steamed Jerusalem artichoke custard and a generous sprinkle of Kristal caviar, a lovely briny melange of flavours and textures. Or the dish named English Garden, which features lightly poached seasonal English vegetables paired with umami-packed black olive powder and an equally moreish anchovy dressing, drizzled over—literally, via a mini watering can— with a seaweed and herb broth. There is also the beautifully cooked turbot, a flatfish readily found in British waters, here paired with a smooth, rich purple artichoke puree, blanched kohlrabi and a deliciously tangy sauce; and Welsh salt marsh lamb served with minimal embellishment and sauces on the side.
Give that there is a dearth of British fine dining restaurants in this part of the world, this is a refreshing change. The fact that it is well-executed, with just the right restraint and no tacky gimmicks make it memorable. Verdict: We like.
Level 70, Equinox Complex, 2 Stamford Road. Tel: 6837 3322