Man Fu Yuan at InterContinental Singapore has long drawn diners with its stellar menu of traditional Cantonese classics. But in keeping with the times, the powers that be have decided to give the restaurant an update, and what a lovely one it is.
The restaurant interiors remain as they were, and the service is impeccable as ever. But look closer and you’ll notice the starched tablecloths are gone, and the table settings, sparkling and modern, brandishing a Chinoiserie chic. The real change is of course in the menu, which has been given a delicious makeover by InterContinental Singapore’s inimitable executive chef Eric Neo.
Expect the likes of ‘Western’ ingredients such as foie gras and tomahawk to feature on the updated menu in dishes such as pan-fried foie gras with suckling pig in crepe ($25 per person) and Mongolian-style grain-fed Australian beef prime rib ($128). The latter comprises a tomahawk that is first marinated in rich paste of kidney beans, chilli oil, sesame oil et al, then seared and roasted and finally braised to yield rich, mouthwatering flavours. At a hulking 1.2kg, this one is made for sharing.
Other new additions include the mango passion fruit prawns crowned with a dollop of tobiko ($30), silky smooth vermicelli bathed in prawn bisque spiked with Chinese wine and paired with tiger prawn ($14 per person), or the star of the show, the miso shoyu baked cod set atop scrambled egg whites ($26 per person). A variation on that Nobu miso cod classic that has somehow found its way to Chinese restaurants over the years, this is a finely tuned composition that looks as good as it tastes, with a rich melange of contrasting textures and sweet and savoury flavours.
Even the classics have been given a little nip tuck. The signature tea-smoked duck, for instance, is reincarnated as Longjin smoked duck, with more delicate, refined flavours, thanks to the use of Longjin tea leaves. Barbecue pork, that Chinese restaurant requisite, is presented here with Kagoshima pork belly ($28) for a lovely layering of fat and meat, barbecued to yield a slight crunchy char on the outside and firm tender meat on the inside.
Finish off with the chilled coconut jelly ($14), here paired with crunchy cubes of aloe vera for a light refreshing dessert. For a more sinful indulgence, opt for the signature deep-fried sweet potato ball cradling salted egg custard that oozes out at first bite ($14 for six dainty pieces).
InterContinental Singapore, 80 Middle Road. Tel: 6825 1008