FINDING THE RIGHT BALANCE
An Osaka native, Homare Kanazawa of Sushi Kou has been practising his craft in Singapore for the past year and a half. He makes each of the multi-course omakase sets here (priced at $50, $80 and $100 for a minimum of two) with the freshest of ingredients air-flown from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market twice weekly.
How does your Osaka heritage influence your cooking?
Some of my experience in Kansai-style cooking has been adapted here, for instance, in the preparation of dishes like the yaki umaki, a grilled unagi wrap with egg and spinach.
How do you design your omakase meals?
When the supplies of fish arrive from Japan every Tuesday and Friday, I am presented with a new challenge. With the seafood that I have, I have to make an omakase set that represents a balance of flavours. For instance, in nimono (a braised dish), I contrast the sweetness of the nishin (herring fish) with the purity of the eggplant. I also make sure that no element in the omakase meal is too light or heavy.
What are some of the quality fish you bring in?
We get fish like mebaru (white crouper), hirame (flounder) or katsuo (bonito) which allows us to present an assortment of sashimi and sushi platters. For instance, the mana katsuo (pomfret) is usually eaten Teochew-style in Singapore, but here we use it for sushi and sashimi, and I can also cook osuimono (clear soup) with it. Another versatile fish is the ama dai (sweet seabream). I use the body for sashimi and I braise the fish head with sake to make a sakamushi (sake-steamed dish). Nothing is wasted—even their bones can be fried or made into fish stock.
What new dishes will you offer this month?
It’d be spring in Japan, so I’ll be thinking of making spring vegetables like nanohana (rape shoots), cabbages and bamboo shoots. I will also be making Kagoshima wagyu in a braised style, which is fitting for the season.
1 Tras Link #01-16, Orchid Hotel. Tel: 64448433.