We have to admit that stepping into Sum Yi Tai felt a little like walking into a Suzie Wong-esque world, what with the dim interior, reddish hues, mahjong tile-artwork and old Canto-pop tunes emanating from the speakers. The vibe ties in with the restaurant’s namesake, which means ‘third wife’. Sum Yi Tai sticks to the narrative of a Hong Kong gangster’s third missus who uses the three-floor shophouse to entertain guests: the first floor houses a tapas bar, the second level has a restaurant and the third features a by reservation-only rooftop bar.

A menu boasting authentic Cantonese fare, including an exceptional Crispy Roast Pork with Chilli Oil Dip ($12), is conceptualised by chef Ricky Ng from Blue Lotus and now co-owner of Sum Yi Tai. Pick one of the 20 different whiskies such as the small batch Glen Garioch on the rocks ($14) or a cocktail like the chrysanthemum-infused Chinese Mojito ($21) served in a dim sum basket.

25 Boon Tat Street. Tel: 6221 3665

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